Here’s what I got to surf today! I made the picture large so you can see the beautiful glassy face of the wave right as it’s about to break. I got lucky on this shot, due to my lack of photography skills and the camera I am using has a whopping 3.2 MP.
It was a perfect morning for surfing here in the Carolina coast.
After a rough night of machines malfunctioning (ah, to accidently change the set points…) and learning that I have my very own ova and parasite farm in my house (read: cats got fleas from the porch and now they’re in my dream home), I was in desperate need of some relaxing ocean waves on my 7’6 epoxy.
Despite how nice these waves look, some of them packed some serious punch. I pearled pretty hard a few times and even managed to get caught in the break zone, stuck on the inside during a couple of sets.
I was amused at how I was almost down the face of a wave and it would lift the back of my board up and *ker plunk* I was in the soup.
Nonetheless, it was so awesome, a very high stoke factor today!
I think I will have to go back to board shorts – even tho thong bathing suits are banned at KB, I had some pretty ugly ocean-induced weggies. I’m not sure if my suit is just wearing out or if my butt has shrunk more by jogging.
This problem could be so easily solved by just surfing naked. I would contend with board rash on my nipples if I didn’t have to worry about my suit going every which way. And no tan lines! I have thought about just showing up in board shorts, I have whatever is less than an A cup is, so I figured I could pass for a guy.
Surfing naked is on my bucket list. I’m just not sure when – or if – it’ll happen. It could be never, or the next big wave that hits me and knocks my suit off. Tequila makes her clothes fall off, why not the ocean?