I hit the surf today, which was minimal, despite having 3 major storms churning in the Atlantic.
It still kicked my butt.
Most of the waves broke hard and fast and about 3 feet….and I somehow always managed to be in break zone.
My next surfing feat is to go down the face of the wave while remaining on the board. So far, as soon as I realize I’m heading down the wave, I bail. I curl up into a ball and protect my head with my arms from the seafloor or my surfboard (which sometimes thinks it’s a kite) – I look more like a grade school student prepping for a tornado than a bonafide surfer. I’ve pearled really hard a few times (like today) and that feeling of being at the mercy of the wave with no control is a very scary thing for me. I struggle cruising down waves on a boogie board – its much more terrifying when you’re on a 7’6 piece of plastic! Maybe next year that will be my goal, since this year was all about getting comfortable in the ocean and with my board.
It may also help that The General and I are adding to our quiver — our 1st short board should arrive today: a 6’6 turbo fish. It might be easier to take on those steep waves with something a bit smaller.
The General and I traded boards today, too – I got to try out his 8’0 longboard. It’s so freaking stable and big compared to my narrow funboard, a very nice ride. I really had a blast with it in the whitewater when I wasn’t being tossed about by the waves.
One of the many beach treasures I find once in awhile are clam shells that are still connected and open. The organism has been long gone, but an intact shell remains. I’ve only found one; I super-glued the ligament (I’m not sure what to call it….) and keep it as a knick knack. I found one today and put it in my board short pocket and figured if it survived me surfing, I’d take it home. It did. Once I got it home, I saw it had a little baby clam inside it, hanging out. It was still alive! It had that cilia stuff on the outside of it and after while, it made itself at home, hanging from the top of the clam. How crazy is that?
I’m debating on weather to take it back to the beach before work.