Beyond the fact that I surf for sheer enjoyment, it just doesn’t seem right.
Take my friend Charlotte, for example. She is a champion napper. This girl can fall asleep just about anywhere and sleep soundly all the time.
I love napping, but I would never challenge Charlotte to a nap-off because a) she’d win and I have a bit of a competitive streak and b) why would I take something I use to relax, enjoy, and unwind and turn it into a contest?
I know it’s for some, and that’s totally cool, but for me — I’m with Laird Hamilton — it’s never appealed to me. It’s more of an art form than anything.